Monday, September 30, 2013

An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément (in 2013), Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller at Château Pape-Clément during the 2013 Bordeaux Wine Tour by ombiasy

Château Pape-Clément is a Cru Classé de Graves. The winery and vineyards are located in the commune of Pessac, in the larger Bordeaux City area. Château Pape-Clément belongs to the wine imperium of Bernard Magrez, which now covers about 40 estates in Bordeaux and other parts of France as well as in the rest of the world.

Earlier this year (in September) I toured Château Pape-Clément with Winemaker Arnaud Lasisz. This was the first stop of Annette Schiller’s 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy.

See here for more on the 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Château Pape-Clément and the City of Bordeaux

The outskirts of the city of Bordeaux are the birthplace of the phenomenal Bordeaux wine boom. It was here – in the Graves - that the region first gained its reputation, as early as the 14th century – hundreds of years before Dutch wine merchants and producers drained the marshes of the Medoc. In the Middle Ages, much of the Claret - as red Bordeaux is called in the United Kingdom - shipped to London was grown within in easy distance to the Quai de Chartrons in Bordeaux.

Pictures: Greeting Arnaud Lasisz at Château Pape-Clément

For centuries, Graves encompassed all the vineyards south of the border with the Medoc, in a great sweep around the city of Bordeaux with the exception of the sweet wine appellations of Sauternes, Cerons and Barsac, which are nestled within the boundaries of the Graves, but are independently recognized because of their outstanding noble-sweet white wines. But in 1987, the Pessac-Leognan appellation was carved out of the northern end of the Graves, encompassing Graves’ most respected producers. The four key producers in Pessac-Leognan are Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion (both in American hands), Laville Haut-Brion and Pape-Clement

Interestingly, these chateaux are within the city limits of Bordeaux and well within the Bordeaux beltway. This is the most urban wine area I have seen in Bordeaux and perhaps in the whole world. Indeed, the vineyards of Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Laville Haut-Brion and Pape Clement are surrounded by suburban development.

See also:
In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France

Pictures: In the Vineyards of Château Pape-Clément

Bernard Magrez

Bernard Magrez is a self-made man who made his fortune as the founder of the William Pitters spirits company and the low-cost red Bordeaux brand. But for the past 20 years or so, he has been involved in quite a different, more upmarket side of the business: he has acquired prestigious vineyards and wineries, first of all in Bordeaux, then in other parts of France and more recently around the world. The total count at the moment is about 40 wine estates.

See also:
Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Pictures: In the Cellar of Château Pape-Clément

Château Pape Clément

Pape-Clément has one of the longest and best documented histories of all Bordeaux châteaux. The vineyards were planted in 1300 by Bernard de Groth, who later became Pope Clément V and moved the papacy to Avignon.

Pictures: At Château Pape-Clément

The noble de Groth family was based in Sauternes. In 1299, Bernard de Groth became Archbishop of Bordeaux. His brother (who was Archbishop of Lyon) gave him as a gift what later would become Chateau Pape Clement to be used as private residence as Archbishop of Bordeaux. Bernard de Groth lived there for 6 years. In 1305, Bernhard de Groth became Pope Clement V and felt that he should donate the property to the church.

In the hands of the church, the Pessac estate continued as a site of viticulture for many centuries, right up until the Revolution when it was confiscated and sold off as a bien national. In 1939 the estate was bought by the Montagne family; they appointed Bernard Magrez as General Manager in 1985. It is now owned and run by Bernard Magrez.

Pictures: Château Pape-Clément

The vineyard area consists of 32.5 hectares, 30 of which are planted with red grapes varieties (60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot). The remaining plots are cultivated with white varieties of 45% Sauvignon blanc, 45% Sémillon and 10% Muscadelle.

Production of the Grand Vin - Pape Clément – is: 7,000 cases of red wine and 350 cases of dry white wine. Additionally, there are 2 second wines - Le Clémentin du Pape Clément and Le Prélat du Pape Clément.

Pictures: Tasting including the 2010 Pape-Clément, which got 100 points by Robert Parker

Wine Searcher Average Prices (in US$)

Here are the current average prices and those of 12 months ago in brackets.

2012 76
2011 90 (85)
2010 224 (205)
2009 171 (166)
2008 134 (125)
2007 142 (126)
2006 159 (154)
2005 221 (214)
2004 119 (111)
2003 137 (135)
2002 142 (132)

schiller-wine: Related Posting

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux – A Short Introduction

In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux (2012)

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux

Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion - A Profile, France

An Afternoon with François Mitjavile at his Tertre Rôtebeouf - A Saint Emilion Cult Wine Producer

Tasting Château du Cros and other Petites Bordeaux Wines with Winemaker Julien Noel at Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, USA 

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA
 

Friday, September 27, 2013

Winemaker Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch in the Nahe Valley, and Rock ‘N’ Roll, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Martin Tesch in Wiesbaden, Germany

Martin Tesch is one of Germany’s leading winemakers. Wine Journalist and Riesling Guru Stuart Pigott named him Winemaker of the Year 2013. Martin has a passion for Rock ‘N’ Roll and has managed to integrate his passion into his winemaking: Martin Tesch’s signature wine is “Unplugged”; Martin Tesch has documented his passion for wine and Rock ‘N’ Roll in a book entitled Riesling People Vol. 1; Martin Tesch has made the wine “Weisses Rauschen” with the leading German Punk Group “Tote Hosen” and - to celebrate the 10th anniversary of "Unplugged" - Martin Tesch released the audio book Riesling People Vol. 2..

See also:
Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch, Winemaker of the Year (Germany, 2012) - Stuart Pigott/FAZ

Vendredi du Vin #59: Wine and Music

This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by Lolita Sene of "J'aimetonwine". The theme is “Wine and Music”.

Picture: Vendredi du Vin #59

Dr. Martin Tesch and Weingut Tesch

Martin Tesch owns and runs Weingut Tesch in the Nahe Valley. The winery has been family-owned and run since 1723 and is a member of the prestigious VDP, the century-old association of Germany’s top winemakers.

In his mid-thirties, Dr. Martin Tesch is a Ph.D. microbiologist by training. He took over Weingut Tesch in 1996 and has presided over fundamental changes both in the vineyard and the wine cellar as well as in the marketing of the Tesch wines.

When Martin Tesch stepped in, the vineyards totaled over 30 hectares and the wine portfolio was pretty mainstream, with a multitude of grape varieties, of quality levels according to the German wine law and of styles in terms of sweetness of the wine.

Picture: Martin Tesch in Mainz

Martin changed this radically.

First, he cut back on the overall output of the winery. All the north-facing vineyard slopes were abandoned as they naturally produced poorer grapes. These slopes have now reverted to nature and helped create habitat and biodiversity.

Next, he concentrated on Riesling and Pinot Noir, the king and the queen of German grape varieties. All other grapes were grubbed up. Today the vineyard area totals 20 hectares of which 17 is Riesling and the remainder Pinot Noir.

Starting in 2001, Martin stopped producing sweet-style wines. All Tesch wines are now bone-dry, except, it seems, for the occasional Eiswein when conditions allow.

Further, he has moved to natural and non-interventionist winemaking and strict yield control of between 20-30 hl/ha. The harvest is manual and he picks the grapes at full ripeness, but avoids botrytis.

Also, he changed and simplified the label design. There are no long words anymore on the label. Each wine is color-coded and has individual artwork to distinguish it.

Finally, Martin Tesch now uses the Stelvin glass closure. It is an ultra-modern and expensive technical fitting; Martin Tesch and an increasing number of his colleagues are very upbeat about it.

Riesling Unplugged

Martin’s signature wine is “Riesling Unplugged”. "Unplugged" by Eric Clapton has always been one of my favorite albums. Clapton recorded the album for the MTV unplugged series. This was a series of CDs recorded live with as much authenticity as possible. Martin Tesch's "Riesling Unplugged" is - like Eric Clapton’s “unplugged” music and the music of the other unplugged CD series artists - a natural wine, with minimal intervention, just as Mother Nature nature intended it.

Riesling Weißes Rauschen

In a joint venture with the Die Toten Hosen, Martin Tesch produced the wine "Weisses Rauschen". Of course, Martin is in the lead, but Martin told me that the band played an active role in the selection of wine, the name of the wine and the design of the bottle. The wine was named after a song of Die Toten Hosen from the album Zurueck zum Glueck (Back to Happiness).

Die Toten Hosen is the leading German punk band. The members of Die Toten Hosen are Campino (Andreas Frege), Kuddel (Andreas von Holst), Vom (Stephen 'Vom' Ritchie), Andi (Andreas Meurer) and Breiti (Michael Breitkopf).

The band has existed for over 20 years. The debut single "Wir sind bereit" (we are ready) was released in 1982. Their 1000th concert was on 28 June 1997, in the Düsseldorfer Rheinstadium, and was attended by more than 60,000 fans.

Picture: Die Toten Hosen

Riesling People Vol. 1

Martin Tesch has documented his passion for wine and Rock and Roll in a book entitled Riesling People Vol. 1.

This is an unusual book. It explains in a straightforward way, without words, what makes Martin Tesch tick and the wines he produces so special. As a picture-book and travelogue, Riesling People Vol. 1 differs dramatically from the usual wine books. Almost without words, the book tells the story of Martin Tesch and his love for Riesling and Rock and Roll music. It is narrated by black and white photography, printed on glossy paper, and showcases the ecclectic mix of wine and music in Martin's world.

The central theme of the book is the Rolling Riesling Show, which was jointly organized by Martin Tesch and the guitar manufacturer Gibson. Martin Tesch took an audience that was not necessary knowledgeable about wine through six different dry Rieslings and their soil-specific differences. In addition to the Rolling Riesling Show events, the book includes pictures from London wine bars, from Hong Kong, New York, Jancis Robinson and Stuart Pigott, proud Australian importers with the first container of Tesch wines, Martin Tesch at the concert of the Tote Hosen in Trier and backstage with the Düsseldorfer Punk Rockers at Rock am Ring.

Pictures: Riesling People Vol.1 and Vol.2

Riesling People Vol. 2

With the 2010 vintage, Martin Tesch's Riesling Unplugged celebrated its 10th anniversary. At this occasion, Martin produced the audio book Riesling People Vol. 2. It is a medley of diverse contributions of a group of friends of Martin Tesch - sommeliers, customers, journalists, writers, chefs and musicians. The sommeliers Natalie Lumpp, Jürgen Fendt, Billy Wagner and others comment on Riesling Unplugged of each of the 10 vintages; Stuart Pigott talks about hunting sharks on the Nahe river. The Rock and Roll Band Die Toten Hosen – Martin Tesch produced the wine Weisses Rauschen with them (see below) – contributed a song to the Riesling People Vol. 2, as did Koester + Hocker and the Group Les Sauvignons. All in all, a highly entertaining and informative audio book about Martin Tesch’s Riesling Unplugged.

Schiller Wine - Related Postings

In the Glass: Unplugged - Eric Clapton and Martin Tesch

Impressions from the Riesling + Co World Tour 2010 in New York

In the Glass: 2009 Weisses Rauschen – A Joint Venture of Winemaker Martin Tesch and Punk-Rock Band Die Toten Hosen

The Avantgarde Wine World of Dr. Martin Tesch

Tesch Riesling Unplugged 2010 and Duo Favo FAVOriten

Wine Maker Martin Tesch: Riesling People Vol. 2, Germany

Best German Wine and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2011)

Stuart Pigott at the Weinhalle in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch, Winemaker of the Year (Germany, 2012) - Stuart Pigott/FAZ

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Government Owned and Run Wineries in Germany - Staatsweingut Weinsberg in Wuerttemberg

Picture: At Staatsweingut Weinsberg

In Germany, the Government owns and runs a number of wineries, including several very large wineries. Germany is a federal state with 3 levels of government: federal, state and local. At the federal level, there is no government ownership in the wine industry, but there is extensive involvement at the state level. In addition, there is government ownership at the local level.

At the state level, there are 2 kinds of involvements. First, there are wine estates that are government owned, but operate like private wineries. There are five such wine estates in Germany and all of them are large. Second, there are government wine estates that produce and sell wine, but also fulfill other functions, notably research and education. The second group I understand is treated like government departments and is accounted for in the national accounts in the government sector.

This posting profiles Staatsweingut Weinsberg. In an earlier posting, I provided an overview about the role of government in the wine industry in Germany; I will quickly summarize my main findings here.

See:
The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany

Weinrallye # 67: Politik und Wein - Politics and Wine

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the same heading – Politik und Wein (Politics and Wine). Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany. Weinrallye #67 is organised by food blogger Astrid Paul from Arthurs Tochter Kocht (Arthur's Daughter Cooks).

Picture: Weinrallye

I am profiling a government owned and run winery in Germany - Staatsweingut Weinsberg, including a short description of the five largest government run and owned wineries in Germany. I recently visited Staatsweingut Weinsberg.

See:
Touring (and Visiting 4 Wineries in) the Württemberg Wine Region (Zabergäu), Germany

The Big Five

Here are the "big five".

Hessische Staatsweingueter Kloster Eberbach (Rheingau and Hessische Bergstrasse)

The Hessische Staatsweingueter Kloster Eberbach, owned by the State Hessen, is Germany's largest wine estate. It serves as an umbrella organization for seven individual wine estates, including 3 wine producing facilities and cellars. The total vineyard area of the 7 estates comes to more than 200 hectares, of which 85% are planted with Riesling, 10% with Pinot Noir and 5% with other varieties.

Most of the vineyard holdings of the Hessische Staatsweingueter date back to the 12th centuries, when Cistercian monks founded the famous Eberbach Abbey.

See:
In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany 

Landesweingut Kloster Pforta (Saale Unstrut)

The Landesweingut Kloster Pforta is located in Saalhäuser in the Saale-Unstrut wine-growing region and owned by the State of Sachsen-Anhalt. Its origins date back to the Pforta Abbey, founded in 1137 also by Cistercian monks. The vineyard area totals 51 hectares.

Saechsisches Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth (Sachsen)

The Saechsisches Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth is located in Radebeul in Sachsen and owned by the Federal State of Sachsen. The vineyard area totals 94 hectares. Some of the vineyards are terraced and on steep slopes, along the Elbe river.

Staatliche Hofkellerei Wuerzburg (Franken)

The Staatliche Hofkellerei Wuerzburg is located in Würzburg in the Franken wine-growing region and owned by the State of Bavaria. The Staatliche Hofkellerei Wuerzburg can look back to a long tradition. Founded in 1128, it is Germany’s oldest wine estate. Initially, it was owned by the Prince-Bishops of Wuerzburg, who were simultaneously bishops of Wuerzburg and dukes of Franken. The vineyard area totals 120 hectares. These holdings are spread over many communes.

Staatsweingut Meersburg (Baden)

The Staatsweingut Meersburg is located in Meersburg at Lake Constance and owned by the State Baden-Württemberg. From its construction in the 1750s until the bishopric was dissolved in 1803 it was the seat of the Prince-Bishop of Constance. In 1802, it passed – along with the Salem Abbey - into the hands of the Margrave von Baden during Napoleon’s secularization. The vineyard area totals 62 hectares, planted with Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Traminer and Regent.

Wine Estates as Government Departments

There are a handful or so wine estates that operate as a government department. These are wine estates that produce and sell wine, but also fulfill government functions, notably research and education. The following 4 of them are even members of the VDP association, Germany’s association of elite winemakers. Staatsweingut Weinsberg, Staatliche Weinbaudomaene Oppenheim, Forschungsanstalt Geisenheim and Staatsweingut Freiburg und Blankenhornsberg.

Staatsweingut Weinsberg

Staatsweingut Weinsberg is a department of the Government of Baden-Wuerttemberg. It is part of a school and research institute, which was initiated and planned by Immanuel August Ludwig Dornfeld (1796-1869), the father of the well known Dornfelder grape variety, and built in 1868 as the "Royal School of Viticulture" under King Charles I of Württemberg (1823-1891), the first viticultural school of Germany.

Picture: Staatsweingut Weinsberg

Today, between 30 to 50 students are at the school with the aim to become a Weinbautechniker (vocational winemaker training). This is a winemaker degree below the bachelor level. The school also trains coopers.

As for research, new grape varieties developed here include Acolon, Cabernet Dorio, Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Mitos, Dornfelder, Kerner, and Silcher.

Picture: The Wines of Staatsweingut Weinsberg

Staatsweingut Weinsberg has 40 hectares of vines, some of which are planted in the estate’s solely owned Weinsberger Schemelsberg and Abstatter Burg Wildeck. Riesling, Lemberger and Pinots dominate.

Pictures: In the Cellar

Managing Director of the Staatsweingut Weinsberg is Günter Bäder. Gerhard Wächter is the Winemaker. Annual production amounts to 20.000 cases. The Staatsweingut also produces sparkling wine and spirits. The Staatsweingut Weinsberg is a member of the VDP, the association of German elite winemakers.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

David Schildknecht: Riesling's Gobal Triumph: A Pyrrhic Vistory? - Rieslings globaler Triumph: Ein Pyrrhussieg?

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany 

The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

Wine region: Baden and Württemberg, Germany

In the Glass: A 2007 Pinot Noir from the Gault Millau Shooting Star of the Year - Estate Baron Gleichenstein, Germany

Wine Maker Count of Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Frankfurt am Main Presenting his Wines from Wuerttemberg, Germany

A “Viertele” of Schillerwein at Weinhaus Stetter in Stuttgart, Wuerttemberg, Germany

Schillerwein---a German Speciality

Touring (and Visiting 4 Wineries in) the Württemberg Wine Region (Zabergäu), Germany

In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany 

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Picture: Didier Cuvelier, Annette Schiller, Anne Cuvelier and Christian G.E. Schiller at Château Leoville Poyferre

Led by Annette Schiller, the Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy took place from September 9 to 19, 2013. The group comprised 12 wine lovers from the United States, including Annette and Christian Schiller.

Day 1: Monday, September 9

Arrival in Bordeaux.


Check-in at Hotel La Tour Intendance in Bordeaux City.


03.00 pm Welcome drink and introduction to the Bordeaux wine region in the hotel.


04.15 pm Tour and tasting at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Planted with vines in the 13th century, the Château Pape-Clement is the oldest continuously operating wine estate in the entire Bordeaux region. Its name is derived from one of the heirs of the winery who later became Pope Clement V. and wrote history by moving the papacy to Avignon. Now Château Pape-Clement belongs to the wine imperium of Bernard Magrez, which now covers about 40 estates in Bordeaux and other parts of France as well as in the rest of the world.

Winemaker Arnaud Lasisz was our host.


07.15 pm Dinner at the Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City.

The restaurant is situated right on the water of the Garonne river and the view of the city of Bordeaux across the river is magical.


Day 2: Tuesday, September 10

11.00 am Tour and tasting at Château Angélus, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Château Angélus is one of the only four (Angelus, Ausonne, Cheval Blanc, Pavie) wine producing estates classified as premier grand cru classé A in the Saint-Emilion appellation. It sits in the middle of a natural amphitheatre on the south-facing hillside of the famous footslope „pieds de côtes“, just half a mile from the village of Saint-Emilion. Château Angélus has been in the Boüard de Laforet family for seven generations.

Laurent Benoir was our host.


01.15 am Check in at Hotel Au Logis de Remparts, Saint-Emilion.

After settling in at the hotel, we had time to explore the narrow cobble stone streets of the spectacular medieval town of Saint-Emilion, perched on the edge of a plateau.


05.00 pm Tour, winetasting and dinner at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé.

Canon La Gaffelière belongs to one of the 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B châteaux in Saint-Emilion. Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg is a descendant of a German noble line dating back to the Holy Roman Empire. Members of this dynasty always played important roles in European history and politics, and have been making wine since the 12th century. The family still owns a wine estate in the Württemberg region of Germany, where their roots are.

Count Stephan von Neipperg welcomed us.


Day 3: Wednesday, September 11

10.30 am Tour at Château Beauséjour, Appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion.

For centuries this château and château Langais have been in the possession of the Dupuy family. Gérard Dupuy, the current owner, could not be there, but his partner Claire (in life and business) showed us around. They have done extensive renovations of this old estate. Since 1947 Gérard’s father Alain has been convinced that the best wines stem from vineyards and cellars that are managed acroecologically, in harmony with the ecosystem. Since 1996 the Château is certified organic by “Ecocert”.

12.00 pm 3 course lunch with wine pairing in the newly renovated dining area at Château Beauséjour that served as the horse barn in the old days.

Gérard Dupuy’s mother and his sister joined us for the reception. Claire joined us for the reception and lunch, and guided us through the wine tasting.


03.15 pm Tour and tasting at Château de Figeac, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé.

Château de Figeac is the second one of the 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B châteaux in Saint-Emilion that we will visit. Its prominent neighbour is Château Cheval Blanc. Château de Figeac can look back on a turbulent and eventful history since its beginnings in the 12th century. Wine production started in the 17th century. In 1892 the Manoncourt family took over the Château, restored it to its former glory, and transformed the estate into one of the most elegant châteaux in Saint-Emilion.


Day 4: Thursday, September 12

09.00 am Walking sightseeing tour through the beautiful town of Saint-Emilion. We also visited the underground monuments and the monolith church hewn into the rock the town rests on.


11.15 am Tour of Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol.

Pomerol is a tiny winegrowing region, located on the pilgrim road to Santiago de Compostela. Wine has been produced here since Roman times. Later the Knights of the Order of Malta cultivated the vines. In the Middle Ages, these knights established the Commanderie de Pomerol, which still exists today. Château Le Bon Pasteur was acquired by the Rolland family around 1920. The grandson of the original owner, Michel Rolland, well known around the world as “flying winemaker” and wine consultant, and his wife Dany, also an oenologist, created a model vineyard and produce outstanding wines.

12.45 pm 3 course luncheon with wine pairing at the Château.

Dany Rolland joined us for the lunch.


04.00 pm Tasting at Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf, Appellation Saint-Emilion.

This estate is located on a hill in Saint-Laurent de Combes with phantastic panoramic views of the vineyards in the Dordogne valley. We were welcomed by François Mitjavile, the owner of Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf. He is an exceptional winemaker, often unconventional in his views with regard to the mainstream wine scene in France. He is a maverick and refuses to take part in any classification system. His wines are brillant, unique and simply phenomenal. Since Robert Parker discovered these wines, prices very often exceed the prices of the wines from the premier grand cru classé estates.

François Mitjavile was our host.


08.00 pm Dinner at the restaurant Le Bouchon, Saint-Emilion. We had hoped that the weather would cooperate and that we would be able to enjoy dinner outside on the market place to soak in the spectacular architectural heritage and breathtaking atmosphere of illuminated Saint-Emilion. But it did not.

Day 5: Friday, September 13

10.45 am Tour and tasting at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauterne, Premier Grand Cru Classé. Château Climens was first mentioned in 1547.

Since then only five families called Climens their home, with the Lurton family being the last owner when Lucien Lurton bought the estate in 1971. In 1992 Bérénice Lurton, Lucien Lurton’s youngest daughter took over the reins at Château Climens. The estate sits on the highest point in the Barsac appellation and is surrounded by 75 acres of vineyard. The vineyard is entirely planted with Semillion - unusual for a Sauterne – which gives the Climens wines its racy complexity and freshness. Work in the vineyard is based on biodynamic principles and in 2011 Château Climens received the biodyvin certification.

Bérénice Lurton guided us through the tasting.


01.00 pm 3 course lunch with wine pairing at Restaurant Château de la Tour in Cadillac.

Catherine Boyer, proprietor of Château du Cros, and winemaker Julien Noel joined us for lunch and guided us through the tasting of their wines.


03.10 pm Winery tour at Château Du Cros, Vignobles M. Boyer in Loupiac.

After the luncheon we took a short drive to the château where the wines, we had for lunch, came from. The history of the Château du Cros began in 1196 at the beginning of the 300 years of English rule over Aquitaine when Richard Lionheart granted the property to Sir Boson Casau as a fief. Today the Boyer family passionately produces excellent wines: a rich dessert wine from 100 year old vines in the Loupiac appellation, a dry white wine in the Graves appellation and wonderful red wines.

After the winery tour we walked up to the old medieval castle on the hill from where we had a spectacular view overlooking the Garonne river, with Bordeaux in the distance to the north and the Landes region to the south.

We finished the visit with another tasting in the winery’s tasting room.


Day 6: Saturday, September 14

10.00 am 2 hour walking sightseeing tour through Bordeaux.


12.45 pm Tour of the warehouse, lecture, and 3 course luncheon with wine pairing at Millésima in Bordeaux City.

In Bordeaux the wine merchants have always played a decisive part in the wine world. The buying and selling of wine, the setting of a price of a bottle of wine from a specific chateau for a specific vintage, the entire conduct of business is described as „La Place de Bordeaux“. The wine trade in Bordeaux goes back many centuries to the time when Aquitaine was English. Since then, set rules that appear mysterious to the outsider, have been in place. We visited one of the prominent wine merchants “Millésima” and were introduced by Manuela Picot to the rules, regulations, and peculiarities of the “Place de Bordeaux“.

Following a tour through the impressive warehouse where millions of the most expensive wine bottles are stored and waiting to be shipped, we had a luncheon with wine pairing in the dining room at Millésima.


In the evening, some of us went to a concert.


Day 7: Sunday, September 15

09.30 am Since it was a Sunday, we did do as the French do: We went on an excursion to the country side and enjoyed a wonderful luncheon at the Basin d’Arcachon, the famous oyster harvesting bay.

11.15 pm Visit of the Earl Ostrea Chanca oyster farm and oyster tasting.

M. Doerfler is dedicated to his oysters and explained everything we wanted to know about oyster farming and the different kind of oysters.


12.45 pm Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret with a gorgeous view over the bay, the oyster farms and the village of Arcachon and the Dunes de Pilat, the largest in Europe, in the distance. Many of us had a Plateau des Fruits de Mer.


On the way to Pauillac, we stopped at the beach.


05.30 pm Hotel Le Vignoble-France et Angleterre in Pauillac


07.30 pm Dinner at the restaurant La Salamandre in Pauillac.


Day 8: Monday, September 16

09.30 am Along the route to Saint-Julien we saw, among others, the famous tower of Château Latour, Château Pichon-Longueville, and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.

10.00 am Winery tour and tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré,

Appellation Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé. Léoville Poyferré exists as its own domain since 1840, when the big Léoville property was divided into smaller entities. The current owner, the Cuvelier family bought Château Léoville Poyferré in 1920. At that time the Cuvelier family was already established in the wine business as important wine merchants in northern France. Since 1979, Didier Cuvelier has managed the estate. Under his leadership, constant improvements have been undertaken, including a state of the art optical sorting machine in the cellar.

Anne Cuvelier was our guide.


During the tour, we bumped into Michel Rolland.


12.00 pm 4 course luncheon at Château Léoville Poyferré with wine pairing.

Didier and Anne Cuvelier joined us for the luncheon and lead us through a vertical tasting of the wines of Château Léoville Poyferré.


04.30 pm Tour and tasting at Château Pontet-Canet, Appellation Pauillac, 5ième Grand Cru Classé.

Château Pontet-Canet has the largest production (20,000 cases) of any classified growth. It is regarded as „super second“; the quality and prices of its wine is in the same league as the second growths, although it is a 5ième grand cru classé according to the classification from 1855. Château Pontet-Canet was established in the 18th century and since then ownership has only changed three times, the last time in 1975 when the château was bought by Guy Tesseron, from a well known Cognac producing and marketing family. Today Château Pontet-Canet is run by Alfred Tesseron and his niece Melanie, descendants of Guy Tesseron. In the vineyard is where the Tesserons probably have most made their mark in Bordeaux. Alfred Tesseron has spent the best part of the last 10 years converting to organic and biodynamic viticultural practices. Instead of fuel operated tractors, horses are used to cultivate the vines avoiding soil compacting and allowing for better root development. In 2010, Château Pontet-Canet became the first major Bordeaux wine producer to earn the official Agence Bio (AB) organic certification.

Alfred Tesseron joined us for the wine tasting.


Day 9: Tuesday, September 17

09.45 am Drive to Saint-Estèphe. Along the route we passed the famous Châteaux Mouton Rothschild and Lafite Rothschild as well as Cos d’Estournel.


10.00 am Tour and tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé.

This Château features some of the finest vineyards in the world. It is situated in the small appellation Saint-Estèphe and is sandwiched between two prominent neighbors: Cos-d’Estournel on the other side of the street and Lafite-Rothschild, separated only by a small dirt track, and visible across the vineyard that belongs to Lafon-Rochet. Since the 16th century this Château makes excellent wines and had been in the hands of the same family for almost 300 years when it was bought by Guy Tesseron about at the same time when he bought Pontet-Canet.

Winemaker Lucas Leclerc was our host. For the tasting, we were also joined by owner Basile Tesseron. Basile's father, Michel Tesseron, is the brother of Alfred Tesseron of Château Pontet-Canet.


12.10 pm Lunch menu at the restaurant Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe, right on the banks of the Gironde.


At the restaurant, we bumped into the Chateau Sociando-Mallet team, who also had lunch there.


01.30 pm Tour and tasting at Château Coufran, Appellation Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgois.

Château Coufran was bought in 1924 by Louis Miaihle, the grandfather of the current owners. Since 1793 the Miaihle family has been involved in wine; back then as well known wine brokers and more recently as wine producers. Due to the microclimate in the vineyards 85% of the grape varietals planted at the Château is Merlot, which makes the wines of Château Coufran unique in the Left Bank. The estate sits on a hill and from the vineyards you have a phantastic view over the Gironde estuary.

Frédéric Vicaire, co-owner, showed us around and guided us through the tasting.


04.00 pm Hotel Château Cordeillan-Bages, which belongs to Château Lynch-Bages. Time to relax, to savor the beautiful surroundings and amenities of this Relais and Chateaux hotel. We felt a bit what it is like to be a châteaux proprietor in the Médoc.


06.00 pm Visit and tasting at Château Lynch-Bages, Appellation Pauillac, 5ième Grand Cru Classé.

The history of the estate reflects the interesting history of English and French rule in Aquitaine. The original owners, the Lynch family from Ireland, could trace back their roots to an ancestor who was a companion of William the Conqueror. Without an heir, in 1824 the estate was sold and was in the hands of two other families before the Cazes family took over the property in 1933. Since then, the Cazes family has developed the estate with passion and tenacity and started an in-depth modernisation in the 1980s. They are committed to making the most of the terroir, and are devoted to attain the ultimate in quality and prestige of a classified growth.

The visit comprised a tour of the museum and of the winery, followed by a tasting. Jean-Charles Cazes, owner of Lynch-Bages, greeted us.


08.00 pm Menu du terroir at Café Lavinal in Bages.


Day 10: Wednesday, September 18

10.30 am Tour at Cooperage Berger and Fils, where we learned how a barrique is made. The tour was most interesting and we stayed much longer than planned and thus had to cut short our following visit.

Veronique Berger was our guide.


12.00 pm Tasting and light lunch at Château Brane-Cantenac, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé.

This estate was founded in the 18th century and was bought by the great-grandfather of the current owner, Henri Lurton, in 1925. The Lurton family is part of the grand wine dynasties in Bordeaux and plays an important role in the Bordelais (we already visited Château Climens, which belongs to Henri’s sister). The branched out family has wine producing properties in many different appellations in the Bordeaux region. Henri Lurton is oenologist and totally dedicated to producing the best possible wines while at the same time caring about respecting the environment. He built a state-of-the-art cellar according to environmental aspects that houses the fermentation tanks while the barrique cellar remains in the oldest part of the estate.

Corinne Conroy guided us though the tasting and joined us for a picnic lunch.


04.00 pm Grand Hotel de Bordeaux - time to relax, to reflect about all the phenomenal wines we had, and to enjoy this fantastic spa hotel.


07.30 pm Short tour of Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, followed by a 4 course wine pairing dinner in the private dining room of the Château.

At American-owned Château Haut-Bailly wine has been produced for more than 4 centuries and the quality of its wines has always been labeled as outstanding. Château Haut-Bailly is one of the 16 wine producers awarded with the Grand Cru Classé certification in the 1959 classification of the Graves estates. The château and its surroundings vineyards are beautiful, the wines and food are exquisite. It was a perfect setting for our farewell dinner.

Diana Paulin (from Arizona) was our charming host.


Day 11: Thursday, September 19

09.00 am Breakfast buffet at the hotel. This was our last activity together. After breakfast the tour ended.


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