Tuesday, January 2, 2018

Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé

We had 5 excellent tastings in Alsace on our Germany-South and Alsace Tour by ombiasy WineTours:

Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim: Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé
Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller
Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, with Jean Frédéric Hugel
Maison Jülg in Seebach, with Peter Jülg

I have already provided an overview about the entire tour here: Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Jean Pierre Dirler hosted us. After the tasting, we were shown around by Ludevine Dirler-Cadé and also met her husband, Jean Dirler, who was bottling.

Domaine Dirler-Cadé

This winery exists since 1871. Today it is managed by the 5th generation of the Dirler family, Jean Dirler. In 1998 Jean married Ludivine, daughter of Leon and Nicole Hell-Cadé, winegrowers in neighboring Guebwiller. In 2000 Ludevine’s parents plots of vines were integrated into the Dirler estate and the domaine was renamed Dirler-Cadé.

Pictures: Arriving at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz

This took the total estate to 18 hectares, of which 42% are Grand Cru: Saering, with its clay/limestone/sandstone soils and quivering acidity; Spiegel, more sandstone/stony in its make-up, ensuring an ethereal finesse; Kessler, rich in sandy/clay/sandstone is famed for its power and ageing potential; while the sandstone/volcanic/sandy Kitterlé brims with perfumed spicy aromas on the nose and great persistence on the palate.

Picture: Jean Pierre Dirler and his Wife, Ludevine Dirler-Cadé and Jean Dirler

Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Gris account for over 60% of the vines, the remainder made-up of Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Sylvaner, Muscat, and Chasselas.While the vinification is essentially traditional, using both large oak foudres and stainless steel, it is in the vineyard where the most marked changes have taken place: since 1998 all the vines have been farmed organically and biodynamically.

In the 19th century Domaine Dirler was pioneer with the Domaine Dopff of Riquewihr in producing sparkling wines according to the Méthode Champenoise, called Crément d’Alsace.

Pictures: Cellar Visit

In 1998 Jean Dirler and his father decided to convert the estate to a Biodynamic agriculture. They introduced ploughing with a draft horse. The conversion process finished in 2004 and from the harvest of 2007 the estate is 100% Biodynamic, and obtained the label “AB” (biological agriculture) and the label “BIODYVIN” for biodynamic agriculture.

Pictures: Tasting with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé

Tasting

The current wine list of Domaine Dirler-Cadé comprises about 90 items. We tasted 20 of the wines.


Domaine Dirler-Cadé divides its wines into 4 groups:

First, AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz), from 4 grands crus vineyards: Saering, Spiegel, Kessler and Kitterlé (42% of the farmed area)


Domaine Dirler-Cadé: On the map above, we clearly visualize in blue the Spiegel Grand Cru, in yellow the Saering Grand Cru, in green the Kessler Grand Cru and in red the Kitterlé Grand Cru. The black spots correspond to the estate plots.

Second, AOC Alsace Lieux-Dits, with Belzbrunnen, Schwarzberg, Bux, Schimberg and Bollenberg

Third, AOC Alsace Single Grape Variety (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz), Riesling, Gewurz Traminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Sylvaner

Fourth, AOC Crémant d’Alsace, made of the varieties Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Auxerrois

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Crémant d'Alsace 2014 Brut Nature AOC Crémant d'Alsace


Domaine Dirler-Cadé Sylvaner 2012 Vielles Vignes AOC Alsace (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Muscat 2014 Grand Cru Spiegel AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

A sandstone frieze of the 1st Century, found in the region of Rouffach, proves that the grape existed in the region at this time. Near 900, 170 towns like Guebwiller and Bergholtz were listed as wine grower. The Commandry of Issenheim quotes as “lieu-dit” of vineyard: “Schwartzberg” (hill where the Spiegel is located), “Hohenrod” (near to the current Spiegel Grand Cru), “Stein” (center of the current Spiegel Grand Cru). The Spiegel is renowned and valued since more than 70 years, during which this cru’s producers have attached importance to preserve its originality.

The Spiegel stretches at mid-slope on the side of Bergholtz and Guebwiller. On an average slope of 260 to 315 m, it is turned to the East and to the South. Marl-sandstone soil.

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Muscat 2015 Grand Cru Saering AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

The Saering was mentioned for the first time in 1250 about a quarrel opposing the nobility of Guebwiller and the Murbach Abbey. Those wines are classified among the bests in the archives of the city of Basel, which had many monasteries that had grapes in the region of Guebwiller.

In the North-East of Guebwiller, adjacent to the Kitterlé, the Saering represents an East and South-East exposed front-hill, at a height from 260 to 300 m. 26,75 ha. Marl-limestone-sandstone soil.


Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling 2014 AOC Alsace (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling 2014 Lieu-Dit Belzbrunnen AOC Alsace Lieux-Dits

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling 2013 Grand Cru Kessler AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

The Alsatian name “Kessler”, which means vat, cooking pot or cauldron in English and also the central part “Heisse Wanne”, hot basin in English let us think that the ancients have always been aware of the higher temperatures on the Kessler and even more in the Heisse Wanne that in the other surrounding plots. At the 16th Century, the “Wanne” had such a reputation that it was quoted in a saying that says: “the bests wines of the country grow in the Rangen of Thann, in the Wanne of Guebwiller and in Turckheim in the Brand”. The Kessler is mentioned from the year 1394, it benefits from a separated Vinification and is sold under its own name since 1830.

The vineyard of the Kessler grows on the East side of the Unterlinger hill, at a height of 300 to 390 m and on a pretty steep and uniform slope. As the name suggests, the Kessler is formed, in its center, of a small valley, mainly south-east exposed, which protects it from the north winds and the cold air currents brought by the valley of Guebwiller. Sandy-clay-sandstone soil.

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling 2012 Grand Cru Kessler AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)


Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling 2014 Grand Cru Kessler AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling 2014 Grand Cru Saering AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling 2012 Grand Cru Kessler H.W. 1/2 Sec AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling 2011 Grand Cru Kessler H.W. 1/2 Sec AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)


Domaine Dirler-Cadé Pinot Gris 2014 Lieu-Dit Schimberg AOC Alsace Lieux-Dits

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Pinot Gris 2013 Lieu-Dit Bux !/2 Sec AOC Alsace Lieux-Dits

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Pinot Gris 2013 Grand Cru Kessler Moelleux AOC Alsace Grands Crus (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Pinot Gris 2009 Grand Cru Kessler Vendages Tardives Doux AOC Alsace Grands Crus Vendages Tarvides (Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)


Domaine Dirler-Cadé Gewurz Traminer 2011 Grand Cru Kitterlé Moelleux AOC Alsace Grands Crus Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)

The Kitterlé Grand Cru: As far as we know, this hill is farmed since more than 10 Centuries. At the Middle-Age, Guebwiller was governed by the Prince-Abbots of the Murbach Abbey. The Crus of the Wanne, the Saering and of the Kitterlé were passing through Basel and Lucerne in transit to head towards Austria. The Kitterlé is mentioned since 1699. In 1782, twelve “schatz” (plots of 0,17 acres) of this vineyard happened to be the exclusive property of the Jesuits of Ensisheim. This hill is sold under its own name since 1830.

At the Lauch Valley limits and North to Guebwiller, the Kitterlé (63.70 acres) draws a spur on the massif of the Unterlinger, allowing different South, South-East and South-West expositions on a heavy slope soil. Very well protected from the North winds, it has a remarkable sunshine and occupies a unique site in Alsace, at a height from 270 to 360m.

This soil is the steepest of the area of Guebwiller and is a sandy-sandstone soil on its South and South-East exposition and sandstone-volcanic soil on its South-West exposition. Its substratum is composed of coarse Vosges sandstone and quartzite conglomerates of the middle Bundsandstein. Towards the top, levels of micaceous fine sandstone and clay lenses can sometimes be found interstratified. At the West end, the sandstone-volcanic soil is part of the Greywacke of the Carboniferous period.

With generally limited yields, this light sandy soil however gives very strong and complex wines, with a particularly smoky and mineral expression. With a powerful nose, those wines keep a crystalline flavor. The Gewurz Traminer from the Kitterlé is distinguished by hints of faded rose and peony and a characteristic minerality.

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Gewurz Traminer 2013 Grand Cru Kessler Doux AOC Alsace Grands Crus Terroir de Gruebwiller et Bergholz)


schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

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The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany – The Case of the Lake Constance Region

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Lunch in Alsace: Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace

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