Wednesday, March 7, 2018

The Rhône Wine Region in Southern France and its Wines: History, Classification, Northern and Southern Rhône

Pictures: Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhône Valley and Hermitage in the Northern Rhône Valley

The Rhône wine region is situated in Southern France in the Rhône Valley and produces a wide spectrum of wines ranging from entry-level Vin de France wines to ultra-premium AOC wines like those from Hermitage and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The Rhône wine region is generally divided into two sub-regions with distinct vinicultural traditions, the Northern Rhône (referred to in French as Rhône septentrional) and the Southern Rhône (in French Rhône méridional).

Picture: The Wines of the Rhône Valley

The Rhône wine region borders in the south-east the Provence wine region, which borders Italy and in the south-west the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region, which borders Spain. Large parts of the Rhône wine region, essentially the Southern Rhône wine region, are part of the Provence.

Interestingly, the Costières de Nîmes AOC between the ancient city of Nîmes and the western Rhône delta, was formerly part of the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region and is now part of the Rhone wine region, administered by the Rhône Wine committee which has its headquarters in Avignon.

See also: Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

Picture: The Rhône River

History

The first cultivated vines in the Rhône wine region were probably planted around 600 BC by the Greeks.

From the 1st-century for 500 years France, like much of western Europe, was ruled by Rome. Their kingdom was powerful and the Romans left a lasting legacy of their civilization in the cities of France, or Gaul, as it was then. Throughout France you find a wealth of Roman ruins and sites, of amphitheaters which once resounded to the roars of the crowds watching the games, of aqueducts that carried precious water, of temples, forums, arches and baths. Most of the Roman remains are in the south of France, in the Provence which lay so close to the Roman Empire and Rome itself.

The Rhône corridor was the main trade route from Mediterranean lands into Gaul.

Arles, Nîmes and Orange form a tight group of cities at the southern end of the valley, all of them Roman coloniae (privileged cities) with exceptional series of monuments. Nîmes houses perhaps two of the best-preserved structures in the Roman world: the ‘Maison Carrée,’ a classical temple built under the first Roman emperor Augustus, and a late 1st-century ad amphitheatre. Most famously, Nîmes was supplied by a long aqueduct which included the world-famous, triple-tiered Pont du Gard aqueduct. Arles rivalled Nîmes, with an amphitheatre of similar dimensions, a theatre and a great circus for chariot-racing. Orange is famous for its theatre with a huge 37m-high stage wall and the exceptionally complete, early 1st-century ad triumphal arch.

In the late Roman period Arles became one of the most important cities of Roman Europe and a fine set of baths built under the first Christian emperor Constantine I (306–37) survives along with evidence for the growth of Christianity in its churches and cemeteries.

With the fall of the western Roman empire in the fifth century interest in the wine of the region disappeared.

The Rhône wine region re-appeared in the 13th century when the Popes and their considerable purchasing power moved to Avignon, at which time the production of wine expanded greatly. The wines were traded to such a degree that the Duke of Burgundy banned import and export of non-Burgundian wines.

The Romans in the Rhône Valley

From the 1st-century for 500 years France, like much of western Europe, was ruled by Rome. Their kingdom was powerful and the Romans left a lasting legacy of their civilization in the cities of France, or Gaul, as it was then. Throughout France you find a wealth of Roman ruins and sites, of amphitheaters which once resounded to the roars of the crowds watching the games, of aqueducts that carried precious water, of temples, forums, arches and baths. Most of the Roman remains are in the south of France, in the Provence which lay so close to the Roman Empire and Rome itself. The Rhône corridor was the main trade route from Mediterranean lands into Gaul.

Arles, Nîmes and Orange form a tight group of cities at the southern end of the valley, all of them Roman coloniae (privileged cities) with exceptional series of monuments. Nîmes houses perhaps two of the best-preserved structures in the Roman world: the ‘Maison Carrée,’ a classical temple built under the first Roman emperor Augustus, and a late 1st-century ad amphitheatre. Most famously, Nîmes was supplied by a long aqueduct which included the world-famous, triple-tiered Pont du Gard aqueduct. Arles rivalled Nîmes, with an amphitheatre of similar dimensions, a theatre and a great circus for chariot-racing. Orange is famous for its theatre with a huge 37m-high stage wall and the exceptionally complete, early 1st-century ad triumphal arch.

In the late Roman period Arles became one of the most important cities of Roman Europe and a fine set of baths built under the first Christian emperor Constantine I (306–37) survives along with evidence for the growth of Christianity in its churches and cemeteries.

With the fall of the western Roman empire in the fifth century interest in the wine of the region disappeared.

The Rhône wine region re-appeared in the 13th century when the Popes and their considerable purchasing power moved to Avignon, at which time the production of wine expanded greatly. The wines were traded to such a degree that the Duke of Burgundy banned import and export of non-Burgundian wines.

In 1486 Provence was legally incorporated into France.

Vaison-la-Romaine

Vaison-la-Romaine is famous for its rich Roman ruins, medieval town and cathedral. The historic section is in two parts, the Colline du Château on a height on one side of the Ouvèze, the "upper city" and on the opposite bank, the "lower city" centered on the Colline de la Villasse. What makes Vaison-la-Romaine so unique is the possibility to see the antique, medieval and modern towns within the same environment, 2,000 years of history. With four theaters, numerous exhibitions and galeries, Vaison-la-Romaine is also renown for its art scene. Many writers, painters and actors live in the area.

Pictures: Vaison-la-Romaine

Orange

Orange, a few miles north of Châteuneuf-du-Pape at the gates to Provence, is famous for its theatre with a huge 37m-high stage wall and the exceptionally complete, early 1st-century ad triumphal arch.

Pictures: Orange

Nîmes

Nîmes houses perhaps two of the best-preserved structures in the Roman world: the ‘Maison Carrée,’ a classical temple built under the first Roman emperor Augustus, and a late 1st-century ad amphitheatre.

Pictures: Nîmes

Pont du Gard

Most famously, Nîmes was supplied by a long aqueduct which included the world-famous, triple-tiered Pont du Gard aqueduct.

Pictures: Pont du Gard

Arles

Arles rivals Nîmes, with an amphitheatre of similar dimensions, a theatre and a great circus for chariot-racing. In the late Roman period Arles became one of the most important cities of Roman Europe and a fine set of baths built under the first Christian emperor Constantine I (306–37) survives along with evidence for the growth of Christianity in its churches and cemeteries.

Pictures: Arles

The Popes in the Rhône Valley

Avignon

Between 1309 and 1377, during the Avignon Papacy, seven successive popes resided in Avignon and in 1348 Pope Clement VI bought the town from Joanna I of Naples. Papal control persisted until 1791 when, during the French Revolution, it became part of France.

The historic centre, which includes the Palais des Papes, the cathedral, and the Pont d'Avignon, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. The town is one of the few French cities to have preserved its ramparts.

Pictures: Avignon

Wine Region: Enclave des Papes

The Enclave was founded in 1317 when Pope John XXII bought Valreas for the papacy of Avignon. Over the next 150 years or so his successors added to the Enclave by the addition of the small towns of Visan, Richerenches and Grillon.

Picture: Enclave des Papes

The Comtat Venaissin

The Comtat Venaissin is the former name of the region around the city of Avignon. The Comtat was an enclave within the Kingdom of France, meaning it was independent from the Kingdom until the French Revolution. The Comtat was bequeathed by the Count of Poitiers to the Pope in 1271. The name comes from Venasque, the former capital, until it was replaced by Carpentras in 1320.

The city of Avignon, until then a distinct Comtat was sold by Jeanne de Provence to the Pope in 1348. At that date, the two comtats were joined to form one Papal enclave.

It is also worth mentioning that the Comtat became an haven for French Jews, who received better treatment under papal rule than in the rest of France. The oldest synagogue in France, built in the 14th century, is in Carpentras.

Although the Comtat was many times invaded by French troops in the 17th and 18th centuries, only the French Revolution brought the Comtat into the Vaucluse départment on August 18, 1791.

The enclave’s inhabitants did not pay taxes and were not subject to military service. This explains that living in this area was definitely more attractive than the rest of France.

Classification

The wine classification system of France was under overhaul from 2006, with a new system fully introduced as of 2012. As of today, any wine produced in France (and in the Rhône Valley) is sold as an (1) AOC, (2) Vin de Pay/ IGP or as a (3) Vin de France wine.

At the top, the AOP system replaced the old AOC without major modifications, although the term AOC is still widely used, including in this article.

Whereas in Bordeaux, Alsace or Bourgogne, essentially all wines are classified in the AOC system, this is not the case in the Rhône Valley. Domaine du Pegau, widely regarded as one of the leading producers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, produces wines in all three classification categories, including the NV Plan Pegau Vin de France that is available, for example, at Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC for about US$20.

The AOC Systems of the Rhône Valley: Rhône AOCs and Other AOCs

The Rhône Valley is dominated by the Rhône AOC system. But there are other AOC systems in the Rhône Valley in addition to the Rhône AOC system. 3/4 of the total AOC region in the Rhône Valley is Rhône AOC and 1/4 is other AOC systems. All ultra-premium AOC wines in the Rhône Valley are Rhône AOC wines, including Hermitage AOC, Côte-Rôtie AOC and Châteuneuf-du-Pape AOC.

Rhône AOC

The Rhône AOC system provides a classification into four categories of AOCs:

(1) Côtes du Rhône only displays the region, and may be used in the entire wine region, in 171 communes. For some communes, this is the only allowed AOC. It is therefore the lowest classification for Rhône AOC wine. Regional Côtes du Rhône wines account for 48% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

(2) Côtes du Rhône Village is an AOC allowed for 95 communes, with a higher minimum requirement for grape maturity than basic Côtes du Rhône. It is therefore a higher classification. In general, the appellation does not allow the village name to be displayed.

(3) Côtes du Rhône Village plus village name on the label is allowed for 18 communes (approximately 6,500 hectares under cultivation). The 2 Côtes du Rhône-Village categories combined account for 11% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Current regulation includes following villages: Cairanne, Chusclan (red and rosé only), Gadagne, Laudun, Massif d'Uchaux (red only), Plan de Dieu (red only), Puyméras (red only), Roaix, Rochegude, Rousset-les-Vignes, Sablet, Saint Gervais, Saint Maurice, Saint-Pantaléon-les-Vignes, Séguret, Signargues (red only), Valréas, Visan.

(4) At the most demanding level of distinction, a total of 17 crus are allowed to be recognized by their village name without requiring the mention of Côtes du Rhône on the label. These include the most famous Rhône wines, such as Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Châteuneuf-du-Pape. There is no official classification differentiating between different crus, but the market prices some AOCs much higher than others.

The Northern Crus account for 5% and the Souther Crus account for 12% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Beaumes de Venise AOC, Château-Grillet AOC, Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, Condrieu AOC, Cornas AOC, Côte-Rôtie AOC, Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Gigondas AOC, Hermitage AOC, Lirac AOC, Rasteau AOC, Saint Joseph AOC, Saint Péray AOC, Tavel AOC, Vacqueyras AOC, Vinsobres AOC, Cairanne AOC.

Pictures: Côtes du Rhône Crus: Côte-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph, Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Tavel

Other AOCs in the Rhône Valley

Other appellations in the Rhône wine region are:

Grignan-lès-Adhémar AOC: The Grignan-Les Adhemar AOC (formerly the Côteaux du Tricastin) is the northernmost wine-growing AOC in the southern area of the Rhône wine region of France. The wines are produced in 21 communes. The Grignan-lès-Adhémar AOC accounts for 2% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Formerly known as Costières du Gard, a VDQS, the region achieved AOC status in 1986 and was renamed Costières de Nîmes 1989. The Costières de Nîmes Appellation between the ancient city of Nîmes and the western Rhône delta was formerly part of the Languedoc-Roussillon Region is since 2004 part of the Rhone wine area and administered by the Rhône Wine committee which has its headquarters in Avignon.Interestingly enough, the immediately adjacent AOC of Clairette de Bellegarde remains listed as a Languedoc AOC. The Costières de Nîmes AOC accounts for 7% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

The Côtes du Vivarais is a wine-growing AOC in the northwestern extreme of the southern Rhône wine region. The wines are produced in 9 communes of the Ardèche department, and in 5 communes of the department of the Gard. The wine became a VDQS in 1962 and was awarded the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée in 1999.

The Duché D’Uzès wine region, in the extreme south-west of the Rhône valley was upgraded from IGP to AOC status in 2012.

The Ventoux AOC (known as Côtes du Ventoux AOC until 2008) is a wine-growing AOC in the southeastern region of the Rhône wine region, covering 51 communes. The Ventoux AOC accounts for 9% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

The neighbouring appellation of Côtes du Luberon AOC stretches along Ventoux' southern border and is separated from it by the Calavon river. The wines are produced in 36 communes of the Vaucluse département. The Côtes du Luberon AOC accounts for 5% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Vin de Pays (VDP)/ IGP

Vin de Pays (VDP) is the French national equivalent of the Europe-wide IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée), a quality category of French wine, positioned below the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). This layer of the French classification system underwent several revisions in the past decades.

There are now more than 150 VDP/IGP titles, covering locations mostly in the southern third of France. The Vin de Pays category is subdivided into three levels of geographical specificity.

The top regional level has six divisions, corresponding roughly to existing wine regions. These are: VDP du Jardin de la France (Loire); VDP de L'Atlantique (Bordeaux, Dordogne, Charentais); VDP du Comte Tolosan (South-West); VDP d'Oc (Languedoc-Roussillon); VDP Portes de Mediterranee (Provence and Corsica); and VDP des Comtes Rhodaniens (Rhône Valley, Beaujolais and Savoie). The center of the Rhone Valley is covered by both the Comtes Rhodaniens and Portes de Mediterranee titles.

The next layer is departmental, reflecting France's wider administrative structure. Of France's 100-odd departements, 52 have their own VDP titles.

The most finely tuned level consists of the 93 Vins de Pays de Zone, the most location-specific titles. These have tighter production regulations, sometimes approaching the strictness of AOC laws. Their evocative, sometimes lengthy, names are intentionally designed to avoid confusion with nearby AOC titles.

Collines Rhodaniennes is the IGP title for red, white and rosé wines from an area which essentially corresponds to the northern Rhône Valley wine region.

Coteaux du Pont du Gard is an IGP title covering wines from an area of the Gard department, at the meeting point of the Languedoc, Rhône and Provence wine regions.

Bouches-du-Rhône is the IGP title for wines made in the Bouches-du-Rhône area.

Vin de France

Vin de France is a designation for table wine from France that has been in use since 2010, when it started to replace the former Vin de Table category. Unlike IGP and AOP wines, Vin de France wines do not indicate the wine's geographical origin within France.

Northern Rhône

The northern Rhône is characterised by a continental climate with harsh winters but warm summers. Its climate is influenced by the mistral wind, which brings colder air from the Massif Central. Northern Rhône is therefore cooler than southern Rhône, which means that the mix of planted grape varieties and wine styles is different.

Pictures: Côte-Rôtie

Syrah is the only red grape variety permitted in red AOC wines from the Northern Rhône. For wines bearing the Cornas AOC designation, Syrah must be used exclusively, whereas other reds from the northern Rhône sub-region may be blended with white wine grapes, either Viognier or Marsanne and Roussanne, depending on the appellation. However, while this is allowed by the AOC rules, blending with white grapes is widely practiced only for Côte-Rôtie AOC.

Viognier by itself is used for white wines from Condrieu and Château-Grillet. Marsanne and Roussanne are in turn used for the whites from Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Saint Joseph, and Saint Péray.

Pictures: Hermitage

From north to south the AOCs in the northern Rhône are:

Côte-Rôtie AOC - Reds of Syrah and up to 20% Viognier.
Condrieu AOC - Whites of Viognier.
Château-Grillet AOC - Whites of Viognier.
Saint-Joseph AOC - Reds of Syrah and up to 10% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
Crozes-Hermitage AOC - Reds of Syrah and up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
Hermitage AOC - Reds of Syrah and up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
Cornas AOC - Reds of Syrah only.
Saint-Péray AOC - Sparkling and still whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.

Southern Rhône

The southern Rhône sub-region has a more Mediterranean climate with milder winters and hot summers. Drought can be a problem in the area, but limited irrigation is permitted. The differing terroirs, together with the rugged landscape which partly protects the valleys from the Mistral, produce microclimates which give rise to a wide diversity of wines.

A feature of the cultivation of the region is the use of large pebbles around the bases of the vines to absorb the heat of the sun during the day to keep the vines warm at night when, due to the cloudless skies, there is often a significant drop in temperature.

The southern Rhône's most famous red wine is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a blend containing up to 19 varieties of wine grapes (ten red and nine white) as permitted by the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC rules.

White wines from the southern Rhône sub-region, such as in Châteauneuf-du-Pape whites, are also typically blends of several wine grapes. These may include Ugni blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul, and Clairette. Since about 1998 Viognier is increasingly being used and is also appearing as a single varietal.

Fortified wines (vin doux naturel) are made in the Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise AOC and Rasteau AOCs.

Southern Rhône AOC:

Côtes du Rhône AOC
Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC
Côtes du Rhône Villages + village name AOC

Beaumes de Venise AOC
Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise AOC 
Gigondas AOC
Lirac AOC,
Rasteau AOC
Tavel AOC
Vacqueyras AOC
Vinsobres AOC
Cairanne AOC.
Coteaux du Tricastin AOC
Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC

Grignan-lès-Adhémar AOC
Costières de Nîmes AOC
Côtes du Vivarais AOC
Duché D’Uzès AOC
Ventoux AOC
Côtes du Luberon AOC

Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is about 12 kilomeres north of Avignon. Almost all the cultivable land is planted with grapevines. A ruined medieval castle sits above the village and dominates the landscape to the south. It was built in the 14th century for Pope John XXII, the second of the popes to reside in Avignon.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most renowned appellations of the southern part of the Rhône Valley. Vineyards are located around Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the neighboring villages Bédarrides, Courthézon and Sorgues between Avignon and Orange and cover slightly more than 3,200 hectares.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape exists as red and white wine, with the large majority of the wines produced being red. The appellation rules do not allow rosé wines to be made.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is traditionally cited as allowing thirteen grape varieties to be used, but the 2009 version of the AOC rules in fact list eighteen varieties. Red varieties allowed are Cinsaut, Counoise, Grenache noir, Mourvèdre, Muscardin, Piquepoul noir, Syrah, Terret noir, and Vaccarèse (Brun Argenté). White and pink varieties are Bourboulenc, Clairette blanche, Clairette rose, Grenache blanc, Grenache gris, Picardan, Piquepoul blanc, Piquepoul gris, and Roussanne.

Both red and white varieties are allowed in both red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There are no restrictions as to the proportion of grape varieties to be used. Most Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are blends dominated by Grenache, which accounts for about 3/4 of the total vinyard surface, followed by Syrah (10.5%) and Mourvèdre (7%).

Pictures: Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Grape Varieties in the Rhône AOC System

21 grape varieties are officially included in the Rhône AOC System.

Syrah is the only red grape variety permitted in red AOC wines from the Northern Rhône. For Cornas AOC wines, Syrah must be used exclusively, whereas other reds from the Northern Rhône AOC wine region may be blended with white wine grapes, either Viognier or Marsanne and Roussanne, depending on the appellation. However, while this is allowed by the AOC rules, blending with white grapes is widely practiced only for Côte-Rôtie AOC.

White wines in the Northern Rhône AOC region are made with Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. The white wines of Condrieu AOC, where only white wines are produced, and Château-Grillet AOC are 100% Viognier. The white wines of Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Hermitage AOC, St. Joseph AOC and Saint Péray AOC, which only produces white wines, are blends of Marsanne and Roussanne.

In the Southern Rhône AOC wine region, Grenache-based blends are the rule for red wines, mostly complemented with Syrah nd Mourvèdre. Generally for red and rosé wines, Grenache must constitute at least 40% of the blend.

For Vacqueras AOC wines, Grenache must constitue at least 50% of the blend and Syrah and or Mouvedre for not more than 20%.

For Gigondas AOC red wines, there is a maximum of 80% for Grenache and a minimum of 15% for Syrah nd Mourvèdre.

For white wines, 15 different grape varities can be used and 80% of the grapes must be made up of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, and Viognier.

Crémant de Die and Clairette de Die

The Drôme is a tributary of the Rhône which, conveniently, serves as the dividing line between the wines of the northern and the southern Rhône wine region. north and south. The vineyards of Die are located in this river valley.

Although the Die region stands isolated in an area of otherwise very little wine production between the northern and southern wine producing parts of the Rhône valley, the making of sparkling wine in the Die region can be traced back over two thousand years.

There is Crémant de Die and Clairette de Die.

Crémant de Die is vinified by the traditional Champagne method of a first fermentation in the vat followed by a second fermentation in the bottle. The following grape varieties are used: Clairette (55% minimum), Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (5 to 10%), and Aligoté (10 to 40%). Production of this wine began in the 1960s and, until 2004, was restricted to Clairette only. The wine was awarded AOC designation in 1993.

The Clairette de Die is vinified in the Méthode Ancestrale. The méthode ancestrale involves a single fermentation, which is stopped, and then allowed to re-start when the wine is bottled – there is no added sugar or yeast. More specifically, as the first step in making Clairette de Die, the grapes are fermented at low temperatures. The fermentation is stopped when the alcohol level is around 5% – 6%. A light filtration leave only a few active yeasts. As the second step, the partially fermented wine - the must still contains residual sugar - is bottled. The fermentation continues in the bottle. The appellation requires a minimum of four months in bottle during which time the alcohol level increases to around 8%. The carbon dioxide released during the fermentation in the bottle stays in the bottle and provides the bubbles upon opening, with pressure as high as 8 or even 10 Bar. The Clairette de Die is always medium-sweet.

In 1971, the method of production of the Clairette de Die wine was officially recognised as the "ancestral dioise process". The AOC designation was awarded in 1942.

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